Secrets to the Perfect Shave

“Most guys just throw some barbasol on their faces and start shaving, but a good shave– especially a hot towel, straight-razor shave– is the male equivalent of a woman getting an expensive facial at a spa.

Step 1: Get Hot. Begin every shave with some heat, which will open your pores and soften your skin and stubble (cold water does the opposite). Shaving in the shower works well, too.

Step 2: Use Lube. Apply pre-shave oil, a lubricant that raises facial hair and allows the razor to glide more smoothly. It works so well that you might not even need shaving cream. Clarin’s shave oil does the job, or you can even make your own by combining equal parts olive oil, flaxseed oil, and almond oil with a splash of rosewood or orange. Then layer on shaving cream, but only use those that contain glycerine ( like Jack Black shave cream) which helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. Lather in a circular motion, ideally with a badger-hair brush, which gets under your whiskers better than your fingers.

Step 3: Apply Steel. Ignore the hype about the new five-blade razors. Once you shave the hair, it’s cut. You don’t need four more blades followi behind it. Straight edge razors are much cheaper than regular razors, and the biggest difference is that they don’t have those tiny blue moisturizing strips- which are irrelevant if you prep properly.

Step 4: Hone Your Technique. As you shave, use your opposite hand to pull the skin taut. The smoother the surface, the more the razor remains in contact with your skin. Remember to re-lather if you want to shave against the grain. Don’t forget that shaving disrupts your natural moisture barrier, which keeps the elements at bay. Apply cold water to close e pores, or any alcohol-free aftershave will do. I like Bay Rum because the bay leaves and cloves smell like a barber shop is supposed to smell.”

-an excerpt from a GQ magazine article by Joel Weber, quoting Justin King who owns Rook’s Barber Shop in Oregon